Following St. Francis in Central Italy: A Practical Guide for Travellers in 2026
- May 9
- 7 min read
This year marks the 800th anniversary of St. Francis’ passing, a milestone that draws pilgrims from around the world. If you’re planning to visit for the occasion, it’s important to know that many sites, especially in Assisi, will be extremely crowded. While I personally avoid such busy times, with some preparation, you can still enjoy a meaningful journey through central Italy. From hilltop sanctuaries and quiet forests to charming villages, this guide provides practical tips to help you navigate the crowds and make the most of your trip.
Starting Your Journey from Major Italian Cities
For travelers from Florence, Milan, Bologna, or Rome, the most practical route to Chiusi della Verna is via Arezzo:
Florence: Train to Arezzo (~1 hour), then TFT Arezzo-Stia train to Bibbiena (~1 hour) and bus to La Verna. From early June to mid-September, take a taxi from Arezzo instead, as buses don’t run. We took it in early September and it was not running on Sundays but available during the week, double check before booking your trip. Taxis are expensive and may not even take you to certain towns. We found one from Bibbiena to Camaldoli (the first leg of the journey, in a separate video) but had to call a dozen phone numbers first. The bus from Chiusi della Verna (H11) was more reliable. We started our journey in Northern Itay, thus we took the Florence route.
Milan: Train to Florence (~1.5–2 hours), then follow the Florence route.
Bologna: Train to Florence (~35–45 min), then continue via Arezzo.
Rome: Train to Arezzo (~2.5 hours), then train to Bibbiena + bus, or taxi in summer.
Tip: If taking the TFT Arezzo-Stia train, remember to validate your ticket before boarding. This is also known as the "little train of the Casentino" (trenino del Casentino), or at least that's how locals called it when we where on site. Its tickets can be purchased at the tobacco shop inside the train station.
Map-Based Itinerary: Step-by-Step Following St. Francis
Leg | From → To | Recommended Stops | Transport Tips | Approx. Travel Time |
1 | Major city → Chiusi della Verna | Arezzo (optional sightseeing) | Florence: Train → Arezzo (~1 hr), TFT Arezzo-Stia train → Bibbiena (~1 hr) + bus/taxi to La Verna. Summer: taxi only. Milan: Train → Florence (~1.5–2 hrs), follow Florence route. Bologna: Train → Florence (~35–45 min), via Arezzo. Rome: Train → Arezzo (~2.5 hrs), Bibbiena train + bus, or taxi in summer. | 2–5 hrs depending on city |
2 | Chiusi della Verna → La Verna Sanctuary | Sasso Spicco, St. Michele Arcangelo (Adam's Rock), Fairy Forest | Walking trail from Chiusi; Hotel da Giovanna at trailhead recommended if sanctuary guesthouse is full | 50 min walk from Chiusi hotel, 10 min by bus H11 |
3 | Chiusi della Verna → Assisi (via Arezzo) | Arezzo city center, medieval streets (we only had time for lunch, it depends on the buses available in the season you visit) | Bus to Bibbiena → TFT or bus to Arezzo → Train to Assisi S. Maria degli Angeli → bus to Assisi city. Train tickets should be booked early, on buses you can tap with a mastercard/visa. | ~4–5 hrs including transfers |
4 | Assisi | Basilica of San Francesco, San Damiano, Eremo delle Carceri | Visit early morning to avoid crowds. Guided explanations for San Damiano require booking. Comfortable shoes recommended. Check bus availability for the Eremo or book a taxi at least the day before. | At least one full day recommended, more if you plan on seeing the Eremo and San Damiano |
5 | Assisi → Greccio | Sanctuary of Greccio, Nativity Cave, Convent, Village Museum | Train from Terni; limited service, in our case replaced by a bus with a different route. Confirm times in advance. Guesthouse Fratello Sole Sorella Luna recommended. | ~2–3 hrs including transfers |
6 | Greccio → Home / Next Destination | Optional waterfall | Local bus, train, or arranged transport via accommodation | Variable |
Not to Miss (Highlights)
La Verna Sanctuary
Why visit: Perched above a forest of moss-covered boulders and ancient trees, La Verna is both wild and enchanting. This was our favourite location and would love to go back, stay inside the sanctuary, and enjoy its magical atmosphere a little longer.
Hidden gems: Look for the Sasso Spicco, a massive rock precariously leaning against the mountain, and the glazed terracottas by Della Robbia scattered throughout the complex. Don't miss the woods behind the sanctuary (sitting area, ideal for a lunch break), and take at least a short walk in the forest below and around it. Keep an eye out for friars' wall paintings... I found them spooky. Don't miss the museum that can be accessed for free (free offer) but that has limited opening hours.
Practical tip: The guesthouse at the sanctuary often fills up quickly. Booking a hotel in Chiusi della Verna can be a perfect alternative, but the town is so tiny you may want to book as soon as possible in either location. None of the sanctuaries will let you in with bare shoulders and short skirts. Wear a scarf/foulard on top of your dress or tank top and you'll be good to go.
Assisi
Key Sites:
San Damiano: In around 1205, the future St. Francis had a vision before a crucifix here that shaped his vocation. San Damiano also served as St. Clare's home, convent, and the founding site of the Order of Poor Ladies (Poor Clares) for 42 years. Visitors follow a fixed one-way path with narrow stairs and arrows guiding the route. Explanatory signs provide context, so friars only give a brief introduction at the entrance. Booking ahead can get a guided explanation from a friar, but either way you follow the arrows through the sanctuary. Note that San Damiano is located mid-hill, so returning to your accommodation involves walking uphill and there's barely any shade from trees along the way.
Eremo delle Carceri: A peaceful forest retreat with tiny cells and rustic prayer spaces, perfect for quiet reflection. This site is farther from the city, so consider a taxi or bus depending on your schedule and the timetable.
Eremo delle Carceri (hermitage), Assisi, PG, Italy Basilica of San Francesco: Houses St. Francis’ remains and Giotto frescoes. Visit early to avoid crowds. Assisi is overflowing with churches, you can take your pick.
Practical Tips:
Assisi’s streets are steep and crowded, especially during peak pilgrimage season.
Plan early morning visits, wear comfortable shoes, and carry water for hot summer days.
If possible, stay inside the city of Assisi. We stayed outside, between Santa Maria degli Angeli and Assisi city, and walking uphill in a heatwave (on roads under construction) was very challenging. If nothing is available in the city, Santa Maria degli Angeli is a better alternative as it's connected by bus.
Greccio
Why visit: About 2 km from the village, the Franciscan Sanctuary of the Nativity (known as Sanctuary of Greccio) sits on a rocky outcrop above a dense forest of ancient holm oaks, overlooking the green Rieti valley. The small cave chapel, rustic convent cells, and Nativity museum make it a secluded and peaceful place to reflect on St. Francis’ life and legacy.
Accommodation tip: The family-run guesthouse where we stayed in Greccio was welcoming and went above and beyond, helping with transportation and other needs. Download offline translators and a selection of Italian phrases to better interact with locals.
Practical Tips: There are no regular taxis, and the train station is far from the guesthouse (doable downhill). Arrange transport with your host beforehand or be prepared for a steep hike uphill with luggage. Buses don't run on Sundays and often don’t follow the timetable on weekdays. If you travel by car, the "Fratello Sole & Sorella Luna" guesthouse has a safe and comfortable parking spot for you.
Food and Practical Considerations
Dietary options: Many sanctuary eateries offer simple menus for different diets, including vegan. In Assisi, however, we struggled to find vegetarian and vegan options or even basic groceries, so plan accordingly. Santa Maria degli Angeli has a decently-sized supermarket one bus stop to the right of the train station.
Transport: Rural areas like La Verna and Greccio have limited public transport, so always prepare a plan B. Buses and trains connect most pilgrimage sites, but service can be irregular: some buses run only on weekdays, schedules often differ from Google Maps, and strikes may occasionally affect trains and buses. In Greccio, there are no taxis, and Uber doesn’t exist, so arrange transport with your accommodation, or be ready for a steep hike uphill with luggage. Most buses let you pay by tapping a credit card but trains must be booked online on the Trenitalia website, all but the TFT Arezzo-Stia for which you can purchase a ticket at the tobacco shop inside the Arezzo train station (both ways).
Timing & planning: Early mornings are best for crowded sites like Assisi. Take photos of bus stops and timetables or save offline maps; Google Maps isn’t always reliable, and mobile signal can be absent in these areas. Check local news for strikes as we were hit with more than one strike in two different regions on this trip. Bring insect repellent if Assisi is on your itinerary. La Verna is higher up, thus temperatures are not as warm and mosquitoes are rare.
Experiencing the Trail
Following St. Francis lets you explore forests, villages, and historic sites while experiencing the local culture along the way. Expect unexpected moments, like mossy forest paths, quaint village corners, and ancient ice houses tucked away near the sanctuaries. Each stop offers a chance to slow down, reflect, and connect with the enduring legacy of St. Francis. However, you don't need to be a believer to enjoy these peaceful retreats. We saw many hikers coming all the way from Germany by foot and only some of them were Catholic. Most were simply looking for beautiful trails far from popular Italian destinations.
Quick Tips Summary
Accommodations: Book early, especially near popular sanctuaries. Many fill up fast, even two weeks ahead in low season can be too late.
Heat and crowds: Visit sites like Assisi early in the morning, and bring water and comfortable shoes for steep streets and forest trails.
Sanctuary visits: Opening hours vary, screenshot them beforehand or download offline pages of the main sites you plan to visit.
This year’s anniversary is a wonderful reason to explore these serene landscapes and historic sanctuaries. Whether you follow the route exactly or add your own twists, central Italy promises a journey full of quiet beauty, spiritual reflection, and timeless charm.
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Rahel
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